This message came to me a couple of weeks after I sent Poncho a copy of the pattern for the ultra light canoe hull. I was amazed that he had gotten so far so quickly. It's taken me over a year to build my canoe!
Anyway please read about his canoe (hopefully pictures will be here sometime soon so I can post them on this web site).

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 06:42:39 -0500
From: Poncho
Reply-to: poncho@xxxxxxxx.com
Organization: me myself & i
To: Grant B
CC: Bob poncho@xxxxxxxx.com

Subject: Canoe

Hi Grant,

Sorry to have not updated you. I've become so engrossed in the canoe building I've almost become lost.

To start:

The canoe is within spitting distance to being completed. Too bad the creeks are frozen.

A few things I've found. Quarter inch luan plywood works without steaming. A little tearing in the outer shell was noticed between the junction of seam 1 and 2. It was easily covered with fiberglass and resin.

Sewing: I started out using 22 ga galvanized wite at a uniform 2 inch spacing. This was overkill. two inches are necessary for seam 1 and junctions with this seam on 2, 3, & 4. Along the straighter stretches of those other seams, stitches every five or six inches are adequate. Also baling wire, also known as binding wire is preferable. Its cheaper, larger gauge (18), softer (mild iron), and can be sanded flush with a belt sander.

Fiberglass and resin: I bit the bullet and used West system epoxy. Its less offensive than polyurethane resins. It's drawbacks are expense and slow curing time. The fiberglass I'm using is mat I purchased from a local boat shop. That was another non critical mistake. Four inch wide woven tape is available, next time I'll use tape. I taped both sides of long chine. I double taped the prows. The ends of seam one end up with three plies of fiberglass and resin on the outside and two on the inside.

Structural:. I included two plywood bulkheads into the canoe. Each bulkhead is three feet back from the stems. At the gunwales these bulkhead battens provide for a 16" beam at those sections. A small triangle at the bottom of these bulkheads protects and hides the junction of all the seams on the hull from the inside. I sprayed expanding foam inside the prow volumes to provide strength and floatation (if that's necessary with a wood boat).

I also staggered the side and bottom panels when I joined the two boat haves together. I think it would be handier if the panels were scarfed and joined prior to sewing. When I build the next boat, I'll try that.

Accruements: I stumbled onto six 12' white oak battens 1/2" by 2". Two were used for the outwales. Another two were cut into four five foot sections and used on the inside bottom of the floor, both to structurally bind the two boat halves and to provide some hull stiffness along the hull. In retrospect this is probably overkill, the hull seemed to have had sufficient stiffness without these battens, but they also provide a place to keep shipped water to slosh without becoming a nuisance.

I then used the other two strips to make and attach the seat. I always wanted a solo canoe with a continuously adjustable seat, so I built a track and a seat truss. Then, before I drilled holes to mount the seat to the boat, stumbled onto a set of skateboard wheel bearings and hit upon an idea of making a sliding seat. That way I wouldn't have to lean forward to reach the cooler and provides for turbocharged paddling on flatwater..

Left to Do: Sand, sand, and sand. I have to do the final finish. I also would like to band the keel line from stem to stern with metal. I'm thinking of using 1/2" hard copper pipe after I split it open from lengthwise. I'll attach the flattened pipe using construction adhesive and screws. Then I'll coat the edges with resin.

Plywood 2 1/2 sheets @ $8/sheet $20
Fiberglass mat (50" x 10') $20
6 Oak strips 12'x1/2"x2" @ $2/ea $8
West System Resin 2gal@$90/gal $180
Assorted brass screws and bolts $15
Skate board wheel bearings (4) $4
Sandpaper (rough guess) $25
Wire $2
50' 3/8" Sisal Rope (for seat webbing) $6
Rubber gloves, filter masks and putty knives $20

Additional Notes:

The boat could be lighter but I'm building it for creeks. It's bottom will be dragged across rocks. It weighs about 60 lb.. It about 14 1/2 feet long. It has very little rocker and the stems are very sharp. Using less taping, I think the resin use would be significantly reduced. To about a gallon. Additionally with the hard chines and the shallow vee bottom, it would make an outstanding sailing canoe.

I'll be sending you some pictures.

Poncho